FROM Kunming, my tour group travelled to Dali, some 350 kilometres (km) away, by bus, which took over four hours. On the return journey, we boarded the high-speed train, which took about two hours 30 minutes, with a top speed of about 190 km per hour, although it was stated that the maximum speed is 250 km per hour.
Dali, located between the majestic Cangshan Mountains and the tranquil Erhai Lake, is the cultural heartland of the Bai ethnic minority. Their traditions are reflected everywhere, especially in the city’s elegant architecture, colourful customs and relaxed way of life.
The highlight of my visit was the ancient walled city of Dali, which dates back more than 600 years. Entering through the iconic Wu Hua Gate felt like stepping back in time. Visitors can climb to the upper level of the gate tower for a panoramic view of the old city, where rows of traditional houses with grey-tiled roofs stretch towards the distant mountains.
Walking through the cobbled streets, I was fascinated by the distinctive Bai-style architecture. Many shops and affluent residences feature whitewashed walls trimmed with black borders, gracefully curved tiled roofs, intricately carved wooden doors and windows, and beautifully painted courtyards. Decorative stone screens, elegant gateways and colourful floral motifs further reflect the Bai people’s refined craftsmanship and appreciation for beauty. These well-preserved buildings give Dali its unique character and timeless charm.
The streets are lined with shops selling local handicrafts, embroidered bags, silver jewellery, marble carvings and traditional Bai costumes.
Food lovers will find an endless variety of local delicacies. Freshly baked flower cakes, grilled goat’s milk cheese, crispy pastries, roasted nuts and preserved fruits, fried mushrooms and fungus tempt hungry visitors at every turn. More adventurous food stalls display fried scorpions, centipedes, beetles, silkworm pupae and bamboo worms. While some travellers eagerly sample these unusual snacks, many visitors, including myself, can only watch with curiosity – and perhaps a little apprehension.
Nearby, Foreigner Street is one of Dali’s most vibrant attractions. Once a favourite stop for international backpackers, it is now lined with cafés, tea houses, restaurants, boutique hotels, bars and souvenir shops. Visitors can relax over a cup of Yunnan coffee or locally produced tea while soaking up the lively atmosphere. As evening falls, colourful lights, live music and cultural performances transform the street into a bustling nightlife destination.
Yunnan small-grained coffee
Yunnan Small-Grained Coffee, an Arabica variety grown in China’s Yunnan province due to its ideal geographical conditions and climate, is reputed for its highly distinct profile: rich but not bitter, aromatic but not overpowering, and subtly fruity with mild acidity. This makes it one of the specialties of Yunnan, available as a drink or in powder form in attractive packaging at many shops in the old streets.
Another memorable destination was Shuanglang Ancient Town, located along the northeastern shore of Erhai Lake. Its charming old street runs parallel to the lakeshore, offering magnificent views of the sparkling water and the surrounding mountains. Traditional Bai houses, stylish guesthouses and lakeside cafés create a peaceful setting where visitors can stroll, enjoy local cuisine or simply admire the scenery, while photographers waiting for the perfect sunset complete the picturesque scene.
My visit to Dali was far more than a sightseeing tour. Its fascinating history, distinctive Bai architecture, vibrant culture and breathtaking landscapes combine to create an unforgettable destination. From the historic Wu Hua Gate and bustling Foreigner Street to the tranquil lakeside beauty of Shuanglang, Dali leaves every visitor with lasting memories and a longing to return.
