Thursday, 12 June 2025

A hiking adventure on Bengoh Range trail

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The jetty at the starting point of the Bengoh Dam trail.

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By Rintos Mail

AFTER the boat ride across the serene waters of Bengoh Dam, embark on an hourlong hike to breathtaking waterfalls along the Ton River in the Bengoh Range.

For beginners, hiking this trail, which winds through the waterfallrich Ton River, can feel daunting — especially when you start keeping track of the hours it takes to complete.

However, there’s no need to be overly anxious.

With the guidance of an experienced tour guide, you can confidently and safely achieve your goal of reaching the final destinations and returning home with amazing memories.

As someone who hadn’t walked long distances or climbed hillside slopes in nearly 15 years, I was initially unsure if I could complete the hike.

Yet, I managed the round trip to these much-talked-about locations, which I had only seen in stunning photographs on social media.

The experience of seeing these places with my own eyes was nothing short of extraordinary. Before setting off, Wes Tami, the tour guide and owner of Wes Kandung Homestay, briefed me at the jetty.

I couldn’t help but asked myself, “Can I do this?”

Wes had explained that it would take about 45 minutes to reach the Curtain and Pe’an Waterfalls, with an additional 30 minutes to get to the Jurassic Park-like Susung Waterfall.

Although I’ve hiked jungle trails before, including those leading to the famous caves in Mulu National Park, I remembered how physically draining such treks could be.

Fortunately, hiking the Bengoh Range trail doesn’t require any special skills.

All you need is the ability to walk at your own pace and a willingness to follow your guide’s instructions.

A simple rule of thumb: listen to your guide, take in his stories about the area and don’t hesitate to request short breaks if you need to catch your breath or soak in the fresh jungle air.

Hiking the Bengoh Range is an excellent way to reconnect with nature, improve your fitness, and recharge — just as it was for me.

Wes, an expert on the area, led me every step of the way, sharing fascinating insights about the forest, rivers, local traditions and the history of the land.

His knowledge added depth to the journey, making the trek not just a physical adventure but also an enriching educational experience. One of the best things about this hike is that you don’t need specialised gear.

Basic items you likely already own will suffice.

While jeans and casual clothes may work, it’s better to opt for moisture-wicking workout attire or stretchy clothing designed for outdoor activities.

The tree trunks used to make the stairs up the steeper slope.

Long pants or tights protect your legs from scratches caused by bushes or fallen branches, and short- and long-sleeved shirts are suitable.

A sturdy pair of rubber shoes or trail runners is highly recommended to ensure comfort and prevent blisters.

I wore rubber jungle shoes, shorts and a T-shirt and I found them perfectly adequate for the trail. It’s also wise to carry a small backpack with essentials like drinking water and snacks as the hike will make you sweat and may leave you feeling hungry or thirsty.

Staying hydrated and energized is key to enjoying your adventure.

The trail features a mix of terrains, including steep slopes, bamboo staircases, fallen tree trunks, and river crossings.

Wooden or bamboo steps have been thoughtfully laid out on the slopes to make climbing safer for hikers, and in some places, cut tree trunks act as makeshift stairs.

Perhaps the most challenging yet memorable part of the hike is crossing the suspension bamboo bridges.

The writer crosses the bamboo suspension bridge constructed over Ton River.

These bridges, which span the Ton River, offer a unique and slightly nerve-wracking experience, especially for first-timers.

While they may appear flimsy, they are ingeniously constructed using bamboo hooks and cables anchored to sturdy trees on either side of the river.

To ensure safety, beginners are advised to cross one at a time.

The longest of these suspension bridges is a marvel of local craftsmanship, maintained and rebuilt by the local community. It’s a rare structure, perhaps the only one of its kind still standing in Sarawak, and it adds a sense of adventure to the journey.

Surrounded by dense forest throughout the hike, the effort is undoubtedly worth it.

For someone like me, the walk to Curtain and Pe’an Waterfalls took about 20 minutes, slightly longer than usual because we paused frequently to catch our breath and listen to Wes’ stories, which were delightful and rich with local history.

From Curtain Waterfall, it took us another 15 minutes to reach Susung Waterfall, faster than the 30 minutes Wes had initially estimated.

A mini Midin Island seen from the boat on the way to the hiking trail.

Along the way, the sights and sounds of cascading waterfalls and the soothing “white noise” they produce made the trek even more enjoyable.

The highlights of the hike include the Curtain Waterfall, Pe’an Waterfall, and Susung Waterfall — each a stunning natural wonder that hikers shouldn’t miss.

The adventure begins at a jetty near the abandoned Kampung Pain Bojong.

To reach this starting point, you’ll take a 15- to 20-minute boat ride across the Bengoh Dam, depending on the speed of the boat’s engine.

For those looking to extend their experience, Wes Kandung Homestay offers affordable overnight stays and meals, making it a comfortable base for your hiking expedition.

The Bengoh Range trail offers more than just a hike — it’s a chance to immerse yourself in nature, learn about local culture and history and create unforgettable memories amidst some of Sarawak’s most beautiful landscapes.

So, lace up your shoes, pack your essentials and embark on this incredible journey

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