WHILE it may not be the tallest waterfall in the Bengoh Range along the Ton River, Curtain Waterfall is impressively wide, reminiscent of a theatre curtain dyed in white.
It stands out as one of the most popular waterfalls in the area, alongside the Susung Waterfalls in Pain Bojong-Sting.
At Curtain Waterfall, you’ll encounter a four-tiered cascade. Below it are two additional waterfalls, which are challenging to reach due to the steep terrain, while above lies the Pe’an Waterfall.
A tour guide and operator at Wes Kandung Homestay, Wes Tami, explained that the waterfall was named by a travel agent he escorted to the location about two decades ago before the construction of the Bengoh Dam.
The name was chosen due to the waterfall’s resemblance to cascading curtains. We noted that the white cascade of water is famous among visitors for its back-massaging qualities.
“Most hikers or travellers go there to massage their backs,” he explained.
The hike to Curtain Waterfall and Pe’an Waterfall takes about 45 minutes at a leisurely pace from the jetty at the abandoned Kampung Pain Bojong-Sting. As you approach, the welcoming sound of rushing water builds anticipation, almost like a warm invitation.
Upon arrival, as I stepped onto the large rocks, I caught my first glimpse of nature’s stunning spectacle. I gasped in astonishment at the clarity of the water flowing in delicate streams, resembling flowing curtains.
The water cascaded throughout the horizontal rock, creating gentle white noises that filled the air.
The pool at the base of the falls is not very deep but caution is advised if you decide to get close or take a dip as the rocks can be slippery.
From Curtain Waterfall, we made our way to Pe’an Waterfall, which consists of two sections: one a gentle cascade and the other, the first to greet you, continuously gushing over the rocks.
Although than Curtain Waterfall, it lacks the captivating charm of its neighbour.
At the nearest section, the water swirled joyfully over the rocks, thundering down into a pool below like a gigantic water spout, foaming at the surface.
The pool invites visitors to soak in its refreshing waters, but I refrained from dipping my legs, as I hadn’t come to bathe. Instead, I took numerous pictures to capture the moment.
Next, we ventured to Susung Waterfall, located about a 30-minute walk (at a slow pace) from Curtain Waterfall. Surprisingly, we reached it in only about 15 minutes at my pace.
Upon arriving at Susung Waterfall, we were greeted by its breathtaking beauty, with cool waters splashing off the rocks like gentle drizzles.
Here, you wouldn’t even consider soaking in the pool; the misty atmosphere alone provides a refreshing coolness.
Inevitably, you and your gadgets will get a bit wet while exploring, especially near the gushing white cascade that tumbles onto rocky outcroppings covered in lichen, moss, and slippery stones.
The vertical mist created by the spray dazzled me under the sun’s rays, forming a picturesque display of mist, spray, and even rainbows.
The cool, misty air at Susung Waterfall makes it an ideal place to escape the sweltering heat.
However, navigating closer to the falls requires careful movement over slippery rocks and wooden trails.
Visiting the magnificent Susung Waterfall is always a memorable experience and capturing its beauty in photographs is simply irresistible.
Like Pe’an Waterfall, Susung can only be viewed from the base, but doing so is immensely enjoyable. Indeed, Susung Waterfall and its surroundings are among the most stunning natural wonders encountered during the hike, celebrated for their beauty and tranquillity.
The surrounding forest appears remarkably intact, maintaining a relatively natural and undeveloped state.
This area is a jewel in the Bengoh Range, undoubtedly a precious gem within what seems to be an untouched old-growth forest.
I was captivated by the lianas draping from ancient trees, resembling a beautiful natural swing for monkeys or apes.
No wonder Susung Waterfall has been dubbed “Jurassic Park”, a name suggested by a Malay woman who visited the waterfalls several years ago. While every park has its geological history, there is no concrete evidence to support this claim.
Yet, the imagination runs wild, envisioning strange creatures that may have roamed this area during the Jurassic Period, a time characterized by lush vegetation and abundant life.
The Jurassic Period, named in the early 19th century by French geologist, Alexandre Brongniart, after the Jura Mountains between France and Switzerland, serves as a fascinating backdrop. Much of the initial geological work to develop a relative geological time scale was based on Jurassic strata found in Western Europe.
This is not to say that the rocks here date back to that era or that colossal plant-eating dinosaurs once roamed these lands.
Perhaps the only prominent plant that echoes this ancient time is the old hanging lianas.
If you can’t visit Jurassic Park or Jurassic World, consider exploring Susung Waterfall in the Bengoh Range and let your imagination run wild. We took our time enjoying the sights and capturing photos fit for a scene from Jurassic Park.
Both Curtain and Susung Waterfalls are magnificent and worth a visit even if the trek is a bit challenging. During the hike, visitors often encounter a variety of flora and fauna, including exotic mushrooms, pitcher plants and much more. You can arrange a half-day or full-day tour with Wes Kandung Homestay through its social media account, Borneo Waterfall and Homestay.
