The boat rocked gently beneath us as I gripped the wooden railing, inhaling the crisp air that carried the scent of damp earth and river water. Below us, the Sabang River flowed in murky, dull, coffee-coloured ripples, its depths holding untold stories.
The clouds hung low, forming a natural umbrella shielding us from the sun’s rays, as if nature foretold an adventurous day ahead, even in a moment of stillness.
However, despite the short five-minute journey, the only access was an 18-foot boat ride, costing RM1 per trip. There were no access roads, bridges, or ferries, just a body of water separating us from the land where the Sarawak Government envisions a gleaming new international airport inspired by the grand Hamad International Airport in Doha, Qatar. The idea seemed surreal.
As we neared the jetty (referred to locally as ‘pengkalan’), we could see rustic wooden huts of the villagers decorated with lanterns after the Lunar New Year celebrations.
Here, there were no paved roads for people to walk, cycle, or ride their motorcycles. Their lives remained undisturbed by the hum of modern traffic. Even in the middle of the day, an eerie peace blanketed the village, broken only by the putter of motorized sampans or the distant whirr of passing motorcycles.
Beliong, known as Wen Loong in Chinese, translates to ‘kissing the dragon’. Interestingly, there were no dragons except for the beautiful carvings of mythical Chinese creatures adorning the Fuk Teck K’ung Temple overlooking the Sabang River. Some feng shui masters claimed it to be a grounded dragon, while the Hakka community calls it Vut Leung (captive dragon).
For the Malay community, the name Kampung Beliong referred to a unique axe called the ‘beliong’ axe, traditionally used for crafting boats. With its distinctive forked end, the axe had a wooden handle and served as a hoe and an axe.
The Malay elders of Kampung Beliong believed that in the village’s history, Bruneian settlers once resided there, relying on the ‘beliong’ for boat-making.
Legend has it that a villager accidentally dropped his axe into the river one day. To remember where the axe fell, he made a mark on his boat’s side in hopes of retrieving the precious tool.
He paddled to Kampung Tambirat on the opposite side of the river, where the water was shallower, to search for his axe. Upon realising his beliong had fallen elsewhere, he pointed at the original spot and exclaimed, “There, Beliong!”
The story of this amusing mistake quickly spread among the villagers, leading to the river being named Sungai Beliong and the settlement becoming Kampung Beliong.
Throughout its history, Beliong flourished as an agricultural haven where villagers harvested coconuts, bananas, and palm oil. In the late 19th century, Chinese settlers paid only 50 cents to the White Rajah for a farming licence, clearing land to cultivate coconuts, bananas, and vegetables. Over time, the fields expanded to include pepper, coffee, and cocoa cultivation.
Despite once being a thriving agricultural hub, Beliong’s farmers faced challenges when global commodity prices fluctuated, and pests ravaged the cocoa trees, prompting them to seek opportunities elsewhere. Today, Beliong is home to approximately 500 Malays and 200 Chinese, a fraction of its former population.
Interestingly, seven villages are now divided between two districts, Kuching and Samarahan, remaining isolated and accessible only by river.
While profitable crops like oil palm sustain the residents, transporting them out is laborious and expensive. Similarly, essential goods from the mainland must be ferried by boat, leaving Beliong without direct access to the village, akin to the dragon in its name.
The temple that breathed life into Beliong
What Beliong lost in agriculture, it gained in faith. The Fuk Teck K’ung Temple, once a small hut where locals prayed for a safe harvest, gradually evolved into a spectacular sight adorned with mythical Chinese creatures, including dragons!
For years, the temple has attracted pilgrims from across Malaysia seeking good health, fortune, and inner peace. Nur Azlina Abdullah, a 43-year-old stall owner just outside the temple, spoke about the influx of visitors.
“It is heartening to see visitors from all corners of the country coming to the temple.
“Some seek good health and fortune, and some even find peace.
“In recent years, the temple has even welcomed foreign visitors from America, Thailand, and Singapore,” she told reporters from the Sarawak Tribune.
Situated on the riverbank of the Sabang River, the Fuk Teck K’ung Beliong temple embodies a mystical belief that it is a floating lotus, a sacred symbol of purity in the Buddhist tradition, rising above the mud yet remaining pristine. From a distance, the temple seems to hover over the water, enhancing its mystical allure.
The temple honours ‘Tua Pek Kong,’ which translates to Big Uncle Grandfather, a popular Taoist deity in Singapore and Malaysia. Among the Taoist and Buddhist communities, he is believed to influence the land’s fertility, weather, and the well-being of those who work the Earth. Many revere him as the God of Prosperity, making the temple a beacon for those seeking divine blessings.
The adventure begins!
On a cloudy morning, a group of Sarawak Tribune reporters met with the Chief Executive Officer, Datuk Jeniri Amir, at the Sarawak Tribune office at 7:30 a.m. before proceeding to the YAST Group office. There, Esther Law, the chairperson of YAST Group, briefed the team on what to expect upon arrival at the Beliong jetty and within the village.
The journey commenced with an approximately 28-minute drive from Kuching city to the Beliong jetty on the Tambirat side. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a serene riverside scene with apong (palm sugar) trees lining the riverbank.
While awaiting a boat to transport us across, a friendly 62-year-old maker of ‘gula apong’ (nipah palm sugar), Muhammad Hasli, introduced himself. Hasli, a proud resident of Kampung Beliong, shared insights into his gula apong craft, explaining the detailed process of making gula apong and the modest yet steady income it provided for his family.
A boat arrived at the wooden dock, carrying villagers to the mainland. While observing the villagers disembark, I was fascinated by how they transported their motorcycles across the river. I pondered how they managed to load the motorcycles onto the rocking boat initially.
As we boarded the boat, the answer became evident. A sturdy wooden ramp at the front facilitated the villagers to push their motorcycles on and off the boat effortlessly. This simple yet effective solution to navigate life between the village and the mainland impressed me.
Watching the villagers manoeuvre their motorcycles off the boat, I couldn’t help but admire their adaptability and innovation. Having lived in the city all my life, the wooden ramp symbolised more than just a means of transportation; it exemplified the resilience of the people of Beliong.
Without bridges or roads connecting them to the rest of Sarawak, these individuals had learned to make do with what they had. This raised a question in my mind: for how much longer could they continue this way?
The Sarawak Government’s ambitious vision involved constructing an international airport as grand and modern as the Hamad International Airport in Qatar.
This isolated and serene village, which had preserved its way of life for generations, might soon transform into a bustling gateway for travellers worldwide.
Whether this change would bring prosperity or disrupt the delicate balance of Beliong’s traditions remained to be seen. These thoughts lingered as we journeyed on.
As we docked on the opposite side of the river, I stepped out with a conflicted newfound appreciation for this tranquil village where history, myth, and modern aspirations converged. Life, despite its challenges, continued to flow as steadily as the river, sparking excitement for what lies ahead.
But our journey through Beliong is far from over. In Part Two, we will explore our visit to the potential site of the new Kuching International Airport.
