Lui Cha, also known as Lei Cha, Lui Tea, or Grind Tea, is a distinctive dish from the traditional Chinese Hakka cuisine.
It consists of a bowl of rice topped with an assortment of fresh vegetables, nuts, and sometimes protein options like bean curds, minced pork, or dried shrimp. The highlight of Lui Cha is the flavourful green tea-based broth that is poured over the rice and toppings.
This herbal broth, made from a variety of ingredients such as basil, mint, cilantro, and nuts, imparts a unique flavour and a refreshing taste to the dish.
Preparing Lui Cha can be quite labour-intensive. During my childhood, my mother would rise early to make Lui Cha for lunch on the seventh day of the Chinese New Year, known as Renri, according to Hakka tradition.
According to Chinese legend, Renri is the day when human beings were created by the god or creator.
My mother would grind the ingredients for the broth in an earthenware pot (mortar) using a wooden pestle made from a guava tree branch, turning the mixture into a paste that was then boiled to create the “tea”. Nowadays, electric grinders are commonly used to speed up this process.
Nowadays, due to the time factor, my family often opts to queue at the Lei Cha stall for ready-made Lui Cha on this particular day, and most stalls enjoy brisk business as a result. Today, Lui Cha is available year-round from various food stalls.
It Is Not “Thunder Tea”
The grinding process is known as “lui” in Hakka and “Lei” in Mandarin. However, the word “lei” sounds similar to the word for “thunder” in Mandarin. Consequently, Lui Cha or Lei Cha has often been mistakenly translated as “Thunder Tea” a non-Mandarin-speaking writer in Singapore, and many others also follow suit, as seen on several websites.
Lui Cha is a special dish with a distinctive bitter taste, derived from an herb known as ku li xin (bitter heart). This dish has been cherished for generations, not only for its deliciousness but also for its health benefits and nourishing qualities.
The ancestors of the Hakka people wisely prepared this vegetable-based dish to counterbalance the heavy, oily foods and sweet treats typically consumed during the Chinese New Year celebrations. Thus, enjoying a meal rich in herbs and vegetables on the seventh day serves as a beneficial cleanse for the stomach and digestive system.
Ingredients for Lui Cha
The Broth: A mixture of herbs including basil, mint, cilantro, coriander, ku li xin (bitter heart), as well as sesame seeds and peanuts. Sometimes tea leaves are also added.
Vegetables: A variety of finely chopped vegetables such as cabbage, mustard greens, long beans, four angles beans, sweet leaf (cangkuk manis), cabbages, leeks, dried radish and the like, which are often stir-fried or lightly cooked.
Optional Ingredients: Finely ground anchovies (ikan billis), minced pork, and dried shrimp. bean curd and the like.
In Hakka culture, Lui Cha signifies warmth and hospitality. It is a dish meant to bring families together, enjoyed during festivals, celebrations, and significant gatherings.
The Sarawak Hopoh Association in Kuching has designated May 1st as Lui Cha Day, when association members gather for a Lui Cha Party. A similar celebration was recently held by the association on the seventh day of the Chinese New Year, as part of their festivities. The Sarawak Chai Clan Association also hosts Lui Cha parties on special occasions, like the Women’s Day.
There are two varieties of Lui Cha: vegetarian and non-vegetarian.
One of my favourite stalls is located at Gala Corner in Galacity, Kuching, where the owner offers a vegetarian version of Lui Cha, omitting the anchovies, minced pork, and dried shrimp. The taste of the vegetarian Lui Cha is equally delightful, utilizing all the distinctive herbs found in the non-vegetarian version.
The vendor, Chai Ai Kien, disclosed that Lui Chai is a healthy food as all the vegetables and ingredients are natural materials without adding artificial flavourings, seasoning and colourings. It contains all the goodness and nutritions of the varieties of vegetables. Many of her customers visit her stall regularly.
A cuisine for all
While it is a traditional Hakka meal, Lui Cha is enjoyed by people from other dialect groups, such as the Cantonese, Hokkien, Teochew, and Foochow communities, as well as non-Chinese individuals.
In Kuching City, you can find Lui Cha in various food shops, food courts, and kopitiams throughout the year. This accessibility allows everyone to experience the deliciousness of this Hakka dish.
Lui Cha is typically served quickly by vendors, as all the ingredients and vegetables are prepared in advance early in the morning.
This makes it a perfect option for a casual breakfast or lunch. Many eateries also offer customizable options, allowing you to choose your preferred toppings and adjust the broth’s bitterness to suit your taste.
Lui Cha is more than just a meal, it’s a symbol of cultural richness and unity in Sarawak. Its ability to transcend ethnic boundaries is a testament to how food can connect people. Whether you’re a local or a visitor, trying Lui Cha is a must. So, the next time you find yourself in Kuching City, treat your taste buds to this delightful dish. You’ll not only enjoy a delicious and healthy meal, but you’ll also be part of the shared culinary heritage that defines Sarawak.
