KUCHING: Traditional crafts often struggle to find their place amidst modern consumer demands.
Yet, for Datin Rosemarie Wong-Jabu, the owner, creative and project director of Ranee Artisan Gallery, this challenge presented an opportunity to make a difference.
Her mission? Is to redefine the ideology of Sarawak crafts beyond ‘traditional’ and ‘tribal’.
The journey began in 2012 when the The Ranee Artisan Gallery was born out of frustration with the lack of quality “Made in Sarawak” products.
Initially envisioned as a gift shop that sourced and sold crafts from communities across Sarawak, the gallery also encountered a major hurdle.
Speaking to Sarawak Tribune, Wong said that while the gallery initially sought to showcase the crafts of various communities from the state, there was a challenge with finding reliable supplies with consistent quality.
“When an opportunity presented itself in 2016, The Ranee’s Rural Community Craft Development initiative was launched with the Betong communities up in Ulu Layar.
“The aim is to transform traditional Sarawak crafts into something more contemporary for the modern consumer,” she said.
Empowering artisans, preserving heritage
Wong further said her goal was to give the rural artisans an opportunity to push the boundaries of functional utilitarian products that they were already making for daily use.
“I saw the potential in existing skills and talents, so I reached out to a community on a first project collaboration.
“What I do is identify existing skills and study the products that our artisans already make. From that I redesign and rework a product.
“So basically, deconstruct what they already have and reconstruct it in a modern contemporary approach using existing skill sets,” she said.
Wong further explained that she would choose and co-ordinate colours, but give the artisans a free hand in designing the pattern so they can inject their own artistic style into each piece.
“I always pare down colours to simple monotones so we can focus on quality and getting the finishing right.
“I feel it is important to let the weavers apply their own creativity, and in doing so inculcate a sense of pride and ownership. After all they are custodians of their own cultural heritage,” she pointed out.
She added developing each product is an educational and training process, and normally takes several months of sampling, and numerous trips to the longhouse.
“As we progress through production I constantly troubleshoot and refine their workmanship until we get the results and quality we want,” she said.
Award-winning craftsmanship
Meanwhile, this collaborative effort has resulted in internationally recognised craftsmanship.
This year, several creations namely Tenun Manik Shawl, Woven Bottle, Bamboo Gift Box, Stainless Steel Sintong and Coiled Rattan Placemat, all of which masterfully crafted by local artisans from Betong have received the World Craft Council Asia Pacific Region’s (WCC-APR) Award of Excellence for Handicrafts 2024.
The winning creations were a result of collaboration between the Ranee of Sarawak brand and women bureaus of several longhouses in the Betong Division, showcasing a blend of cultural heritage and contemporary artistry.
Tourism, Creative Industry and Performing Arts Minister Datuk Seri Abdul Karim Rahman Hamzah presented the awards on Nov 29 here and was witnessed by WCC APR president Aziz Murtazaev.
The Tenun Manik Shawl, developed with Rumah (Rh) Gensurai Women Bureau in Layar, is a piece which reimagines the Iban Pua Kumbu.
Meanwhile, the Woven Bottle and Bamboo Gift Box came from collaborations with the Women Bureau of Rh Merunjau, Padeh.
The Stainless Steel Sintong and Coiled Rattan Placemat were crafted with the Women Bureau of Rh Kerapa, Spak.
Rh Gensurai Women Bureau or Sarakup Indu Layar Gensurai has been active for more than 20 years and comprises 50 members aged 35 to 76. They specialise in tenun manik weaving, lace crocheting, patchwork and knitting.
As for the Women Bureau of Rh Merunjau in Padeh, forty of them are aged 20 to 76. In addition to crafting, they are also involved in pepper farming and rubber tapping.
The Women Bureau of Rh Kerapa is similarly composed of around forty members aged 25 to 70. Aside from their crafting expertise, they also engage in pepper farming and paddy planting.
For Wong, she sees the awards as a recognition, affirmation, and achievement milestone for the rural craft development projects.
“Winning a craft award can lead to more exposure, sales, project opportunities, and engaging new audiences.
“Not all awards are monetary incentives, but those that are can use the money they receive to fund further learning, purchase of materials, equipment, and more.
“Awards, too, can inspire future generations of artists and makers,” she said.
She added at this year’s Sarawak Hornbill Tourism Award, the Borneo Cultures Museum Gift Shop, managed and operated by The Ranee won the award for ‘Best Tourist Shopping Experiences’.
“Our multi-brand retail has grown to an impressive seventy, comprising crafting communities, independent artisans, charities and non-governmental organisations (NGOs).
“This award is an attestation of good local products creating a great shopping experience,” she said.
Sustainability and cross-cultural innovation
Meanwhile, sustainability also plays a key role in some of the award-winning creations, such as the Woven Bottle.
Crafted from recycled discarded bottles, it is both an artistic and sustainable achievement. It is an aesthetically beautiful woven vessel for flowers, decoration, or even as a liquid container.
Wong said that the piece was part of the effort to incorporate sustainable practices into its design and production.
“I love the idea of recycling and repurposing. And the woven bottle project was developed during the COVID-19 pandemic.
“We wanted to maintain continuity with our weavers during the lockdown period, and to encourage all within the longhouse community to participate,” she said.
She added it is a challenge to make trash desirable, and there’s an abundance of it all around.
“Our two WCC award winning projects – woven fan tray (winner in 2019), and woven bottle (winner in 2024) have proven that with artistic creativity, it certainly is possible to do so,” she said.
Then, the Tenun Manik Shawl is another innovative piece. It is about the meeting of two tribes from Sarawak and Laos – coming from different cultural backgrounds yet sharing in the traditions of weaving, bonding over the exchange of traditional knowledge and skills.
Wong later shared how the cross-cultural collaboration came about in 2019.
“During the Borneo International Bead Conference back then, I met a group of Laotian weavers who ran a bead weaving workshop.
“I was fascinated at the technique which was similar to how our Iban weavers weave– warp and weft, on a backstrap loom.
“Shortly after, we engaged the Tun Jugah Foundation to run a bead weaving workshop for our weavers.
“Through this newly acquired skill we then prototyped new products, nevertheless always ensuring there is some element of tradition in it,” she said.
Therefore, she said the Tenun Manik Shawl was created, using a Laotian technique but incorporating Iban motifs.
She also said it was refreshing to finally see the traditional Iban textile reinvented, which could now expand into a collection of products.
“Of course change comes with its challenges too. Mindset and conviction are always the biggest hurdle, including time commitment towards a project,” she said.
Looking ahead: Future collaboration
For Wong, sustainability and viability needs to be thoughtfully considered.
“We constantly hear about the lack of natural materials, hence this has to be addressed if we are looking at the longevity of Sarawak handicrafts,” she said.
She also stressed the importance of documentation of crafts and methodology.
“Some crafts will no longer be around if they are not revived now. Majority of the younger generation are not interested in weaving nor have the knowledge of material culture.
“With so many urban career options, most youths are opting for that as crafting is tedious and they don’t see it as a viable career.
“Hence, we see the urgent need to innovate fresh designs and strive to create new interest and awareness,” she said.
Wong added The Ranee of Sarawak brand is looking forward for more opportunities to collaborate with local and international designers, as this brings brand new ideas and presents our products to a global audience.
“Furniture and interior design projects are also in the pipeline, as we have been working to propel crafting beyond just handicrafts,” she said.
Meanwhile, the award-winning creations have been on sale since the project started, with stocks replenished for those sold out.
These unique pieces can be purchased at the Borneo Cultures Gift Shop or through the website at www.theraneeofsarawak.com. Customisations are also available for project-based orders.
For inquiries, interested individuals can reach out via email at theraneeofsarawak@gmail.com.
