FROM Sarawak to Beijing, Jasmine Kho’s culinary journey has redefined how Southeast Asian cuisine is experienced in China.
Born and raised in Kuching, Jasmine began her career far from the kitchen.
Her family’s construction business had roots in China since 1983, when her father set up a factory near Beijing.
After completing her studies in the United States (US) and working briefly with a state government, she returned to Asia in 2003 to help grow the family business.
“I thought I would only come back for one year. But it turned out to be many years,” she said.
Based in Xiamen, she travelled extensively to open export markets across the US, Europe, Middle East and Australia.
Eventually, Beijing’s fast-paced growth and global outlook drew her north.
She moved to the capital to bid for major construction projects, including Beijing’s tallest building and Universal Studios.
During this time, while managing blueprints and building sites, she found herself missing the flavours of home.
What began as casual home-cooked meals shared with friends gradually turned into something more.
“Food connects people. That’s one of the reasons I chose this path.
“It’s a way to share, to welcome, and to tell a story without words, and at the same time promote our culture and tourism,” she said.
In 2012, she opened Mulu Hutong, a reservation-only courtyard eatery tucked in one of Beijing’s historic hutong alleyways.
Named after Sarawak’s iconic national park, the restaurant showcased not only high-end gastronomic experience; it also served as a lab for authentic Malaysian, Southeast Asian and international cuisines.
“There were no halal Southeast Asian restaurants here at the time. I thought, if I ever open one, it should be halal so everyone can enjoy it. That was always my dream,” she said.
Her Sarawak laksa – based on a family recipe using 36 spices and slow cooked for 12 hours, then the paste is left to ferment for at least three days, and the broth is cooked for five hours – quickly stood out.
According to her, locals who wish to enjoy the Mulu experience need to wait until the customer service manager contacts them.
Her achievement does not stop there. During the Asia Food Festival, she served over 300 bowls in a single day.
The success of Mulu Hutong led to the formation of the Mulu Group, which today runs more than 15 brands across Beijing and China.
These include Kakikopi, a kopitiam-style eatery offering ASEAN staples like beef rendang and Hainanese chicken rice.
It was rebranded as Laksa Queen, celebrating the golden jubilee of Malaysia-China diplomatic relations last year, and is the first Sarawak laksa and kopitiam which offers Malaysian delicacies.
Word spread, not surprisingly.
“Mulu has a huge fan base in Beijing, and if we start spreading the word under our platform, the guests will become our whistle blowers,” said Jasmine.
Locals now queue to have a bowl of Sarawak laksa.
Jasmine said her restaurants are not just places to eat, but also cultural spaces to connect people.
A wall mural was designed, featuring four generations of ladies – her grandmothers, curry mee two-sisters in Penang, and Kuching’s Kim Joo Kopitiam old auntie, and her daughter Adia in Orang Ulu outfit.
“Laksa Queen is to pay tribute to women who preserve culture and heritage through food so that the next generations will continue to know the old-school flavours.
“There are elements such as hornbill and MULU National Park and rafflesia on the mural,” she said.
Tables display old Malaysian newspaper clippings on Malaysia Day, and cutleries and put in Milo tins, whereas walls are decorated with posters from the 1960s.
On top of that, Sarawak white pepper and ‘gula apong’ are essential ingredients across her menus.
“Sometimes people mention it’s a Sarawak restaurant, not just Malaysian. Which is fine to me,” she said, laughing.
Jasmine’s background in Southeast Asian political economy studies and international relations, along with fluency in nine languages such as Japanese, Thai, Cantonese, English, Mandarin, Malay, and even some Spanish, has helped her navigate and expand Beijing’s diverse food scene.
With her continuous collaboration with Latin American embassies, Jasmine will be opening a Peruvian+Latin Eatery this year to promote Latin America.
“In Beijing, people are friendly. It feels like another home. Over time, I met a lot of people who have been helping me along the way,” she said.
Inclusivity has long been a central part of Jasmine’s culinary vision.
From the beginning, she made it a point to ensure her restaurants use only halal-certified meat and that even staff meals are halal, allowing customers of all backgrounds to dine safely and comfortably.
“I wanted people to feel welcomed, and food is one of the easiest ways to do that. That’s why it mattered to me that everyone could eat together,” she said.
She credits her team for much of the group’s success.
Many of her chefs and staff have been with her for years, trained to deliver consistency across brands.
Beyond her restaurant operations, Jasmine has also taken on the role of ‘cultural bridge’.
She said that when the tragedy of MH370 happened, she initiated ASEAN Cultural Week the same year, gathering support from ten ASEAN embassies in Beijing and the Chinese government to promote ASEAN and Malaysia through film and TV co-production.
The following year, she was invited by Sarawak Tourism Board to be part of AIFFA 2015 where she would bring in top 10 film companies and producers to Kuching.
In 2018, she led a nine-day tour that brought Beijing families to Sarawak on ASEAN-China Youth Camp, to experience its culture, nature and food.
“They visited schools, tasted Dayak and Chinese cuisine, and explored both rural and urban life,” she said.
In 2020, she also helped coordinate the Sarawak Pavilion for a major trade expo, working closely with the Ministry of International Trade and Industry to present Sarawak not just as a tourism destination, but as a living cultural experience.
She was the mastermind behind the sister city formation between Kuching South City Hall (MBKS) and Beijing Dongcheng District Government.
With people-to-people exchange seen in greater importance, she also linked schools between Kuching and Beijing.
Her contributions have since gained formal recognition.
In April 2025, Jasmine was appointed as a Beijing International Friendship Ambassador by the city government.
The role recognises her efforts in promoting cross-cultural understanding and helping make Beijing a more inclusive, liveable and international city.
Looking ahead, she shared her plans for a gastronomy-themed tour to Sarawak, bringing Chinese media, influencers and Michelin-starred chefs to discover Sarawak’s native ingredients.
“We need to promote ourselves on a high-end level. It should be people who really appreciate culture, heritage, nature and food.
“Sarawak doesn’t need mass tourism. It needs the right kind of visitors,” she said.
Despite her success in Beijing, home is never far from her mind.
“The first place I’ll bring my daughter and husband to when we visit will be a kopitiam. Probably Kim Joo and Chong Choon, and the places I used to go with my godmother and my mum,” she said.
Though she has been away for many years, she still cooks Sarawakian food at home and stays connected through her culinary work.
Through daily interactions, recipes and design, Jasmine ensures her restaurants remain living reflections of Sarawak culture.
For many customers, it is their first encounter with the sights, tastes and stories of her homeland.
“Maybe we will retire in Sarawak, who knows. But knowing me, I don’t think I will ever retire,” she said.
“This is solely because right now, I’m not working for myself. I’m working for my team as well.”
